Review: Neighbourhood greek @exodusbar
177a Blackstock Road, London N5 2LT
Phone: 020 7503 5466
Reviewer: Felicity, January 10, 2015
177a Blackstock Road, London N5 2LT
Phone: 020 7503 5466
Reviewer: Felicity, January 10, 2015
We arrived in Matera on a chilly December night, entranced by Christmas light adorned streets that bustled with shoppers rushing between designer boutiques and cozy bars. It felt a far cry and from the ominous steel mill we’d encountered on the motorway passing nearby Trapani. But this is Italy, a land of contrasts. As we crossed from industrial zone to this celebrated historical town, we didn’t realise the extent of the sensory treat that Matera offered, yet right away we knew we were somewhere special.
In the arch of Italy’s boot, nestled in the mountains between Apulia and Basilicata lie the Sassi of Matera (translated as the “Stones of Matera”). The ancient (some are 9000 years old) excavations are grouped into two Sassi, which are built into the side of a ravine formed by a river. All but abandoned after the second world war, their heritage potential was recognised in the late 1980’s and they were regenerated and achieved UNESCO status. This unique architecture grants Matera the status of one of the most popular destinations in this part of Italy. But coming in late December, as we did, meant although busy, the city had a much more local feel. And one, of a great winter celebration.
We stayed at Palazzo di Gattini, the restored mansion house of the Gattini family, the oldest noble family of Matera. When the family were ousted at the formation of the Italian republic, the hotel like the Sassi fell into disrepair. Skillfully regenerated, the hotel has just 20 rooms, each decorated with unique artefacts and many having sweeping views over the chasmic Sassi.
It was a treat to awake after our first night to find that a generous smattering of snow had landed and that the roof terrace, used for drinks parties in the summer had become a viewing platform for a winter wonderland.
A greater treat was the breakfast. A buffet served across three rooms: cheese and meats, fruit, yogurt and cereal, and tempting cakes and pastries.
The hotel is home to Don Matteo ristorante, where a father and son team prepare traditional local dishes, from Purea di fave e palate, a fava and potato puree served with a poached egg and black truffle, or a asparagus fritter with smoked goats cheese. We caught Donato in the kitchen preparing a banquet, watching him effortless plate course after course was a dream.
And when you’re done exploring the historic cave houses in the Sassi, the towns beautiful cathedral and the picturesque views you’ll have worked up an appetite. If you’re stepping out we recommend the delicious and Trattoria Lucana (Via Lucana, 48, www.trattorialucana.it) for home cooked pasta, antipasto and dessert. Oh and the dough balls. You must try the dough balls.
Or, if you prefer, recline in your hotels’ luxurious spa, complete with steam room and aromatherapy suite.
Matera is entirely unique, retaining a magical sense of history and the opulence and amenity of a modern tourist hotspot. We think it’s a hit all year round.
Disclaimer: we were guests of Palazzo di Gattini – visit http://www.palazzogattini.it/en/home/ for more information.
From historical origins as a practical way to feed the working poor, Street food has enjoyed a renaissance of late. In markets and food truck lots from London to L.A., Portland to Philadelphia, the resurgence is truly global. But it seems no other city has as authentic a historical claim as the home of Street food than the northern Sicilian city of Palermo.
Street food vendors are dotted around Palermo’s bustling markets where grandma’s shop for fish and vegetables and in rowdy squares where young revelers gather late into the evening. Varied too is the food available, from pizza and Arancine to more meaty mouthfuls which tend emerge later in the day.
Of course you can explore street food in Palermo on your own, but a local expert is great if you want to find hidden treasures, while keeping you from getting lost in Palermo’s maze like streets. Marco from Streat Palermo was our knowledgeable and multilingual guide, we met him on a sunny September morning, in Piazza Verdi. For about three hours (tours are slightly shorter in high summer due to the heat) we explored a range of bite sized treats.
You’ve probably tried this filled rice, breaded and fried starter in your local Italian. Forget that. These Arancine are streets ahead. The richest, densest ragu filling surrounded with rice so sticky it’s creamy and holds together brilliantly. Surrounded in a crispy, bready outer. This Arancine has punch and crunch.
Arancine is a Sicilian institution, their name derives from the Italian word for orange (arancia) while arancina means “little orange”. The traditional recipe for Arancina includes saffron; hence the reference to orange. Sicilian recipes for Arancine don’t usually contain saffron, though in Palermo they are served as small balls. In eastern parts Arancine are traditionally conical. And this is the Arancine that most tourists are likely to come across: they are even the customary snack served at the base station of Mount Etna.
Back to Palermo: Marco makes special provision for non-meat eaters. We were served up this truly delicious spinach Arancini. Nutty, crunch and with thick seams of spinach to make up for the lack of ragu.
Venturing through the markets and lanes, Marco made sure we were never hungry, even between the six designated street food stops there was always a snack. Like these incredible marinated olives.
The story of Panelle is one of particular historical interest and deserves some attention here. This chickpea flour based dish is believed to be Arabic in origin. A local myth, perhaps perpetuated by enthusiastic food bloggers, says that this dish helped residents of the city of Palermo survive a siege, as chick pea flour was blown from ships enforcing a naval blockade, which the residents collected and made in to Panelle.
Prepared by mixing mashed potato and chick pea flower, then frying on a grill pan, Panelle were once drenched in vinegar to give peasants who couldn’t afford fish a similarly tasting, cheaper substitute. Nowadays Panelle are still eaten in vast quantities on Sicilian streets, but not as a fish replacement, rather as a breakfast snack.
My hands-down favourite dish on the street food tour was Sficione. A simple pizza served on a focaccia like dough, topped with a thin tomato topping and casciocavallo cheese. The bounce in the dough incredible, giving the pizza an airiness that was irresistible. The toppings just the icing on the cake.
To top off the tour we were ushered into a tiny Sicilian boozer, which we’re told is popular amongst local youth in the evenings. During the day, it’s a slightly older crowd. But the local sweet, sticky wines are served chilled and flow freely. It’s quite the experience.
If you’re partial to street food, then you can’t go past Palermo. If, you’re simply looking for a well informed and entertaining tour of Palermo from a passionate Sicilian, then this tour provides a unique snapshot. Either way, I’m sure you’ll be as impressed (and sated) by Marco’s tour as we were.
London is pumping, Oxford Street’s amass with shoppers and dare I say it, it’s beginning to feel a bit like Christmas. Here’s a visual guide to some of the most happening veg friendly treats since at this time of year: you deserve it.
Fend off the shopping induced hunger pangs with the ultimate tart: this salt caramel is super rich, the chocolate decadent and the base crispy (Pictured above). Long-established Roman chocolate store Said arrived in London last year, and they sure know good tart (and espresso!), plus it’s great location and ample table space makes it a great place to rest those weary shoppers legs. Open daily, 41 Broadwick St, London W1F 9QL.
Greek is great for veggies. And with an impressive selection of jar’d starters and meat-free mains, Mazi Notting Hill does an incredible take on this ancient cuisine, combining Mediterranean ingredients, Greek tradition and a distinctly London finish. If nothing else, go for the desserts. The custard pie (Galaktoboureko) is my dessert of the month. 14 Hillgate St, London W8 7SR. More info.
There’s been a proliferation of markets in the capital, especially this time of year. Southbank Winterfest market (part of the #SCWinterFest) is a great location to end a work day or kick off a late night. With a mostly 29-something crowd, there’s plenty to drink (and eat), including Jaz and Jul’s artisan hot chocolate, one of the tastiest I’ve had in years. Plus, choose almond milk and it’s vegan. Every day till 9 or 10, until January 4. More info.
Not far from Jaz and Jul’s you’ll find the Rekorderlig Cider lounge, a decidedly festive popup warmed by outdoor open fires and cozy skandi style cushions. Try the delicious cocktails, including the Winter Mojito, it’s delicious and destined to become the drink of the winter.
Mission E2 is the latest offering from the Michael and Charlotte Sager-Wilde, a wine bar styled on one of their favourite haunts in San Francisco. Aside from an incredible interior and magnificent coffee, they also serve breakfast. Pop in for one of these numbers:
We might have tried one of their Bloody Mary’s or two, just for a taste of their later in the day service. It didn’t disappoint. MissionE2: 250 Paradise Row, E2 9LE More info.
Veggies rejoice! No longer need you feel like a second class citizen when you’re out for burgers. The honest burger’s cauliflower fritter has all the hallmarks of great bun filling burger: crispy outer, succulent inner, and perfectly seasoned. The fritter is complemented by a cooling mint and yogurt dressing and served on a wonderful brioche. I’ve found my new favourite veg burger. Honest Burgers has eight locations around London More info.
It seems like the most natural partnership in the world – Riverford Organics, suppliers of fine veg boxes from the rolling Devon countryside – and London’s original organic gastropub, the Duke of Cambridge. After all, the owners of both businesses, Guy Watson and Geetie Singh are now married to each other. What could be better?
On launch night, a little corner of Islington has been transformed into an urban farm, spilling over with huge bunches of cavolo nero, giant cardoons, piles of cabbages and pumpkins, proper mud-covered carrots.
Among the crowd packed inside, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is forging towards the bar, while Valentine Warner is sporting a new tweed cap he’s only just bought. There are trays of innovative vegetable cocktails being ferried around: one with beetroot and amaretti, another with carrot, ginger and whisky. They’re proving very popular. So popular, indeed, that they’re promptly made part of the regular menu.
Hugh clambers up onto a table to make a speech of welcome, followed by Guy Watson who confesses he fell for Geetie in a field of radicchio “Given our shared enthusiasm for beer, food and vegetables, it was only a matter of time before we brought it all together.”
I remember the Duke of Cambridge when it first opened: it was truly innovative. Everything was organic, and fiercely seasonal and local. The ever-changing menu, chalked on a blackboard, changed so often that dishes would be rubbed off half way through service and replaced with something else.
Now the new Riverford collaboration will make their fresh produce the star of the show. There’s an example of the kind of food they’ll be offering written up at the back: chard, potato and stilton gratin. Purple sprouting broccoli with almonds and toasted breadcrumbs. For the meat lovers, braised shin of beef with mushrooms, bacon and red wine.
The selection of canapes at the launch were a good sign of things to come. We enjoyed a vibrant beetroot dip with excellent sourdough, some deep fried shards of cardoon with pesto, spiced kale fritters with a coconut chutney and a whole roasted satsuma which had almost turned savoury in the heat, mellowed with a light caramel sauce.
Alongside the restaurant there’ll be a weekly produce market on Saturday mornings when you can choose between five seasonal favourites. And next year there’ll be a whole series of cookery demonstrations and masterclasses – from butchery to baking.
So if like me, the nearest you normally get to a farm is the omnibus edition of the Archers – then get yourself to the Duke of Cambridge. A case of having your veg, and eating it too.
Felicity Spector (@FelicitySpector) is deputy programme editor, Channel 4 News and writes for a number of UK food blogs. She sure knows a celery from a cardoon.
30 St Peters St , Islington, London N1 8JT
Phone: (020) 7359 3066
Reviewer: Felicity, November 6, 2014
If you find you need a rest from the tastes, sounds and sights of Sicily’s bustling cities, fear not, even in the countryside you’ll be in for a sensate feast. The seismic shift of place from city to country is trumped only by the differences you’ll find between Sicily’s regions. The Northwest’s Spanish influence graduates to a much more Italian feel (if there’s such a thing?), as you approach the crossing to mainland Italy at Messina.
This two day trip from Palermo took in Taormina and it’s ancient amphitheatre, as well as the stunning and not to be missed Mount Etna.
Driving east from Palermo, our first stop was Cefalù, a picturesque resort town clustered around a rocky headland. We explored the narrow streets of the old town, and stopped for lunch in the square in front of the stunning cathedral.
This beach is a must. It’s one of the most popular on this stretch of coast. Big enough to spread out the crowd and with plenty of sand. We clambered out to the point where you can fix a lock to attest your undying love, in a slightly more spacious way than Paris’ Pont des Arts.
We thought Sicily was smaller than it is. It took us almost three hours driving on a surprisingly expensive looking, startlingly empty motorway from Cefalù to Taormina. So if you’re planning on seeing different parts of the island you’re best bet is to plan to stay in several places, or you’ll be forever driving. Taormina is well situated to give access to Catania, Messina and the foreboding Mt Etna.
But most of all, if you stay on the coastal part of town you’re going to escape some of the crowds which can get a bit much, especially in high summer.
We stayed in a brilliant villa, nestled amongst lush gardens and a stone’s throw from the gorgeous sheltered beach for which historically made Taormina a resort town. There’s a spacious deck which is great for outdoor meals in the summer and three large bedrooms if you are a larger group.
But the deck, garden and proximity to the beach are what I liked most about this place.
From down here, you’re also a short a funicular ride away from the centre of Taormina, the ampitheatre, and the crowds – just in case you need a hit of the action.
We had some great food in Taormina too; for a quick low fuss snack Cafe Solaris on Via Don Bosco does a awesome tomato and mozzarella crêpe.
We recommend the Ristorante Castelluccio, on the coastal edge of Taormina, with great service, a classic Sicilian menu and a charming outdoor dining area which is perfect for summer evenings.
Etna is a fantastic experience, the spectacular views and stark mountain scenery make it well worth the trip. I’d go so far as to say it’s a must see. We had a few Etna fails. So learn from our mistakes!
And have one of these Arancine on the way down. Apparently it’s tradition.
But even with our navigational errors, it was quite a day trip. Luckily, the owners of our villa had left a great local wine, which we could sip as we enjoyed the sunset.
Thanks to soloSicily for hosting us in Taormina. soloSicily has five properties in Taormina and villa’s and apartments throughout Sicily, both on the coast and inland. Find out more at soloSicily.
It’s a great idea, Ethos, although still something of a work in progress. First off, the design: a fantastically bright, open space with floor to ceiling windows flooding the place with light. There are trees, too, in a dramatic line through the restaurant, lending a coolly Scandi feel to the place – and a welcome that was a whole lot warmer than the weather outside. There is, of course, a concept, though one that barely needs explaining. There are platters of food arranged on two tables, all of it vegetarian, some of it hot and the rest a range of salads. You help yourself, on a small or large plate, and pay for it by weight.
The strap line – Deliciously Different – suggests a healthy, vibrant, eclectic mix, and Ethos almost achieves it. The only drawback, on our 8.30pm visit, was that the food on display had been sitting out for a while. Nevertheless, I chose an interesting mix of salads, including lentils with shaved celeriac, quinoa and beetroot, roasted sweet potato with a touch of goats cheese and spinach, and some slightly watery courgette ribbons. The hot dishes all looked a bit spicy for me, with my chilli allergy, so I tried a sort of pancake concoction on the side. My friend loaded his plate with practically everything, something to beware when it comes to paying up: my modest meal came to a reasonable £7.70 but my friend stacked up a bill of almost £17, partly because he was so tempted to try so many things. If you’re the all-you-can-eat sort of person, you might prefer the unlimited brunch which Ethos puts on at weekends, for one set price.
Anyway, back to the food, which was tasty enough and a far healthier prospect in the West End than the ubiquitous pizza or burger and fries combo. The heartier ingredients like those puy lentils and the quinoa held up well and eating a rainbow of colours is always a good thing. My friend was impressed with the ‘ribs’ made from a protein called seitan, which had a meaty texture and a spicy barbecue kick. He also tried some curried vegetarian scotch eggs, another innovative idea.
The dessert table featured a few cake pops, which might appeal to a younger crowd, a vegan carrot cake – and a fruit salad. I could easily see the range expanding to include some brownies, say, or cookies – even an oaty fruit crumble. We also tried an unusual sounding couscous pudding, asking for a side of Greek yoghurt – which went nicely with it.
Service, indeed all the staff, could not have been friendlier: and if you go for an early lunch or dinner, you’ll get the best out of the freshly laid out food. With a few tweaks, Ethos could be a fantastic addition to the fast casual dining scene in an area which badly needs it – deliciously different, fad free rather than fat free – and three cheers to that.
Felicity Spector (@FelicitySpector) is deputy programme editor, Channel 4 News and writes for a number of UK food blogs. Her plate is filled rather daintily, don’t you think?
48 Eastcastle Street, Fitzrovia, London W1W 8DX
Phone: 020 3581 1538
Reviewer: Felicity, October 15, 2014
Less than half an hour from Palermo, in a rocky valley filled with vineyards and the occasional outcrop of eucalyptus, lies Baglio di Pianetto, an 88 hectare estate of olive and grape groves and L’Agrirelais, a bright and elegant country house. We visited on an unseasonably warm and sunny late September day, the guest of Ginevra Notarbartolo di Villarosa, grandaughter of Count Paolo and Countess Florence Marzotto custodians of the Baglio di Pianetto estates.
After a week travelling in Sicily, we arrived weary from hours of driving and many early starts, yet from the moment we stepped into L’Agrirelais’s large sunny courtyard, we were enveloped in tranquilty. And as we were shown around the grounds we quickly realised how special this place is.
We heard talk that the land is intrinsic to the product and the experience of Baglio di Pianetto, and walking the land there’s an intuitive sense that this is truth. Quickly we felt a sense of peace; a richness and a solidity which is in the air yet of the ground and as we entered the guest house, we had arrived. Arrived not to a showy five star hotel, rather to a welcoming and grand family home, which doesn’t compromise on comfort, but allows you to simply be.
Ginevra explains the story of the guest house with great passion. Damaged by the 1960 earthquake, an inter-generational family project to restore the building began in 2002. Despite it’s relatively recent rebuilding, the original facade which is proudly depicted on bottles from this winery has been faithfully recreated on the garden side of the building. Rooms are elegantly furnished, with interiors chosen to compliment artworks which are unique to each room. All have sweeping views, some with balconies overlooking the pool.
She goes on to explain the product and business: the minerality of the soil, the history of furnishings, the sustainability of the operation and the rising tide of quality Sicilian wine which Baglio di Pianetto has been part of. Yet she’s quick to correct me when I inquire as to whether the guest house business is of her design, “I continue a tradition”, she says. While I don’t doubt this is true, I find her enthusiasm remarkable. This is both of her, and of her family.
We’ve been invited to lunch and to try wines and we’re soon ushered to an elaborately set space overlooking the gardens.
The first wine we try is a 2013 Ficiligno, a blend of Insolia and Viognier, it’s well balanced, there’s a crispness yet a florality. Three levels of ripeness (pre, for acidic, technical ripness for then slightly-over ripe to add the sweetness of the Sicilian sun) are combined to produce this flavour. It’s worth the effort, this wine is delicate yet easy to drink, complimenting the apperitif and starter course which the chef created.
As we progress into the heart of lunch a triumph of a pasta dish is served. It’s one of the best dishes I have eaten in Sicily. The broccoli is honoured in two ways: as a pureé and in slightly macerated form which retains some of the bite. Then the saltiness of the parmesan and pesto, a perfectly al dente fusilli, so good!
As a glass of Ramione 2011 Nero d’Avola Merlot was poured, we learned about the nomenclature of the wines. Each, after a member of the staff of the winery. This Ramione was just great. The Merlot bought a certain sophistication while the Nero bought a fuller body, combined, it was intense, earthy and dark.
For a moment, I wondered if this was how Sicilian reds gained their elegance, by combining with a grape from further north. As our main course arrived, this fleeting thought passed. The 2007 Cembali Reserve really blew my mind. It was complex, with blackberries, spices, even a subtle smokiness but it was also decided and intense, determined to make it’s mark.
It’s a tribute to Baglio di Pianetto’s traditional wine making methods. Fermented for 12 days at a constant temperature thanks to the winery being built into the hillside of this temperate micro climate, the wine is hand-picked, as you’d expect, but also processed through a gravity based system.
The Cembali was the perfect accompaniment to a fine Rossini fillet, which was the only food we ate that wasn’t local to the immediate region. While local meats tend to be eaten quickly, this fillet had been aged and matured. It was delicate and light, letting the wine come in after a meaty mouthful, to zing and enliven.
Although I’m not a regular meat eater I was happy to try this fillet. The wine, the beautiful surroundings and the sense of occasion warranted. That said, the chef catered well to the fully-vegetarian members at the table: everything aside from the fillet was locally sourced, with daily vegetable deliveries from a local provider, a local bakery produces sourdough and olive oil is grown and pressed onsite.
Dessert was similarly impressive, not least because there were two.
As the afternoon sank in and we finished our desert wine (a very good Moscato called Ra’is, which comes from Baglio di Pianetto’s other estate to the south of Sicily), tiredness overcame us. And we retired to the sun loungers by the quite extravagant and very refreshing 33m pool.
The ancients taught that life is constructed from five elements: earth, air, fire, water and ether. Reflections of these elemental archetypes are evident in an experience at Baglio di Pianetto. Of particular note, the richness and solidity of the earth and the spark, passion and intensity of fire. They erupt in the food, the wine, the building, and the people, all of whom have this wonderful terroir as a foundation. It’s an experience that words barely capture, and one which is not to be missed.
Baglio di Pianetto’s Pianetto estate and L’agrirelais guest house are under half an hours’ drive from Palermo, Sicily. Further information at www.bagliodipianetto.com. We were guests of Ginevra and her husband on the day.
One thing becomes obvious as soon as you arrive in Sicily, this island is big and diverse. We didn’t have time to visit the whole island, but where we went, we ate. Here’s our top 10.
Let’s start with a wildcard. We were surprised when this simple café, just off the beaten track in Taormina produced a crêpe so thin and crispy it barely contained the tasty filling of local cheese and tomato. If you’re in Taormina, and you need a snack but want to escape the tourist hoards, then venture up to the simple, no fuss Cafe Solaris on Via Don Bosco.
It might look ordinary, but this rich, thick, sweet and perfectly balanced tomato sauce with Aubergine was really something. The only downside, it was often the only veggie option. We had three, the best at Ferro Di Cavallo in downown Palermo. Read full review of Ferro Di Cavallo
Cassata cake is available all over the island. It’s a Sicilian favourite of sponge cake, ricotta cream and mazipan icing (that’s martorana in Sicilian). They look great, and taste kind of sublime. These one’s were purchased from Bakery Rosciglione in Palermo, via Gian Luca Barbieri 5.
If funghi is in season, then you gotta try this deceptively simple looking dish. Sliced mushroom dressed with lemon juice and pepper, served with rocket and salty cheese. Fork all of these ingredients into a mouthful and you’ll be in heaven, I promise. We saw this one at Casale Drinzi, provinciale 9, Collesano.
Light, citrusy and fluffy, with a crispy base and topped with deliciously tart candied orange peel, this dessert was the triumphant finalé of a dinner at Baglio di Pianetto. Read full review. Via Francia – Contrada Pianetto, Santa Cristina Gela. www.bagliodipianetto.com
This is the lightest, fluffiest cheesecake I’ve ever had. And I’ve had cheesecake. It bounces into your mouth, and the pastry, short yet sweet. Visit for the cheesecake, but also enjoy the hilltop town of Erice (which feels more Umbrian than Sicilian) while taking in the hopeful story of Maria. Via Vittorio Emanuele 14, Erice. Mariagrammatico.it
I was no stranger to Arancine (that’s the correct spelling in Sicilian) before arriving in Sicily, but I’d never had anything as delicious as this. During our streatfood Palermo tour (review coming soon), Marco led us to a stall on Il Capo, one of the less visited of Palermo’s markets. The Arancine is to die for. The veal (sorry veggies) filling is insanely tasty, but it’s the rice which grabbed me. It’s not as compressed as I’ve had before, so the crumb layer on the outside is more spacious, allowing more frying, more crispiness, more deliciousness. 5 star.
Staying on the Streetfood theme, this Sfincione is a street baked slab of pizza, topped with tomato and oregano (plus sausage if you’re that way inclined). But this pizza dough is no ordinary dough. It’s from a one of a kind bakery in Palermo and you can tell. The dough is so light and fluffy, yet tasty from the wood fired cart. I’ve never had anything quite like it.
I know what you’re thinking, how can basil pesto make a top 10? Well think about the freshest, perfectly cooked spaghetti, with a basil so rich and full of goodness it tastes like it’s grown in the light of 1,000 suns. We found this gem at Ristorantino da Spanò, Via degli Scalini, 7. www.ristorantinospano.com.
I’ve had brocolli and pasta hundreds of times for dinner. But never, ever like this. This is a thing of precision, perfectly balanced textures (broccoli puree as well as pieces), wonderfully salty (the Parmesan see’s to that) and dressed with Baglio di Pianetto’s home grown olive oil to bring in the flavour of the land.
This dish truly sang and no other could have been our Sicilia no. 1 (for this trip, anyway).
Via Francia – Contrada Pianetto, Santa Cristina Gela. www.bagliodipianetto.com
Now I’m one of those people who asks for the dessert menu before ordering dinner…always best to be prepared, I’ve found. So what better than a place serving entirely dessert – now, we’re told, a fast growing London trend. Enter the Pudding Bar, the brainchild of Oliver Whitford-Knight, Emily Dickinson and Pete Cawston: open for a limited time only in the heart of Soho, bang opposite the theatre district and perfect for those seeking a post-drama sugar hit.
We were booked in on a busy Thursday night: the faces of envious passers-by peering through the windows at the indulgence within. At the tail end of summer, all the desserts on offer were chilled: probably the only way that chef Laura Hallwood can juggle the rush on orders at busy times, but more hot puddings are promised as the nights draw in, which will provide some variety to the menu.
We chose three between the two of us, strictly in the name of research – one of the Pudding Bar’s most popular dishes – a chocolate S’mores cheesecake, a special of the day – madeleines with poached peaches and a white chocolate mousse – and a new dessert, banoffee mousse with crushed shortbread, white chocolate icecream, and caramelised bananas.
The banana confection was fabulous, incredibly rich, the mousse sandwiched with thick discs of crunchy shortbread, the whole thing brought together by a slick of caramel and those sticky, melty bananas. The icecream was probably redundant, but we managed it anyway.
The madeleines – also a generous portion, were light and moist, and the peaches provided a welcome note of freshness among all that cream. Petty as a picture, too.
I admit to being a die hard baked cheesecake fan, but as set cheesecakes go this was a pretty good one, more of a rich cremeux with a home made ginger nut base, and a dollop of lightly toasted marshmallow crowning the lot. I think there may have been more ice cream, but by this stage we were riding on a sort of sugar and dairy induced haze, which carried us out of the restaurant and all the way onto the 19 bus home.
These are not delicate little morsels of sweet nothings – you need an appetite to finish one, let alone the ‘sharing platter’ of everything on the menu – £28 between two.
If this really is a hot new foodie trend, I’m glad to say I’m well ahead of the curve.
Felicity Spector (@FelicitySpector) is deputy programme editor, Channel 4 News and writes for a number of UK food blogs. Her iPad, brim full of food photos, been known to appear in background shots of many a food bloggers photos.
48 Eastcastle Street, , Soho, London W1W 8DX
Phone: 020 3581 1538
Reviewer: Felicity, October 15, 2014